BHVH - Rabbit Care

Rabbit Care

My First Bunny

They hop, wrinkle their noses endearingly and have those adorable long-ears.
Who wouldn’t want a soft fluffy bunny?

If you’re considering getting your first bunny, do some research
before bringing the long-eared critter into your home.

"Rabbits are intelligent, friendly, and quiet house pets," said Jack Lotko of Southington, Conn. who works as co-clerk with his wife, Tracy, at the House Rabbit Connection, a rabbit rescue in Hampden, Mass. Unfortunately, though, the individuals that are begging for these cotton-tailed creatures the most desperately—little kids—are probably the least suited to care for them. "Anyone can be a good person for a rabbit," Mr. Lotko said.

"However, small children, usually toddlers, don't mix well with bunnies." If you’re considering getting your first bunny, do some research before bringing the long-eared critter into your home, urged rabbit experts, including Carol Manos, who fosters rabbits in her home for the House Rabbit Society, a rescue group in Richmond, Calif. "Rabbits are high maintenance companions; they need to be groomed regularly, fed properly, have litterboxes cleaned daily, and watched closely so that they don’t get into trouble," she said. Fail to do any of these things, and you could find your furniture chewed by big bunny teeth, the wires of the cages warped, the wallpaper gnawed to shreds, and it could be "curtains" for your drapes.

"Educate yourself before getting a rabbit," added Ms. Manos. "They are not ideal for everyone." Amy Rodrigues Singer, of Toronto, Canada and her husband did just that. The couple knew they wanted some type of pet and after doing some investigating, it seemed that a rabbit would best fit their needs. "My husband and I got our first rabbit in 1988. He is allergic to cats and I'm not a dog person. It seemed a logical and adorable compromise," she said. "When we learned they could be litter trained, we were convinced." Mr. Lotko agreed the bunny can add a new twist to the usual "do we get a dog or cat?" debate. "They are more independent than a dog but not as indifferent as a cat," he explained. Just like dogs and cats, rabbits come in many breeds. Robyn Rhudy of Marriottsville, Md., has been a rabbit owner for 20 years and said picking a breed just depends on personal preference.

"Larger rabbit breeds are usually more laid back. Dwarf varieties are more active usually. The Dutch rabbit is known for being an active but very gentile rabbit that makes a good first rabbit," she said. "Angoras are very soft." Some rabbits are slightly more "high maintenance" than others, Ms. Manos added. "The American Fuzzy Lop and the Angora are just two of these." Once you’re sold on the concept of rabbit ownership and you know what kind to get, the next step is choosing a healthy one to bring home. Virginia Brown, DVM, of Dixie Trail Animal Clinic, Raleigh, N.C. treats many rabbit patients. She offered several health indicators to keep in mind when selecting your new long-eared companion. First, look for a rabbit that is bright and alert: "They should have nice clear eyes, " Dr. Brown said. Potential pets should also be somewhat inquisitive and attentive—and not too shy. Be sure they don’t have any diarrhea either, she added. The Singers chose Newton because she seemed more interested in people than the other rabbits. "She also looked healthy, [and had] clear eyes and nose, straight teeth, and we took her to our vet immediately to have her checked out before falling in love with her," Ms. Rodrigues Singer said.

Keep in mind that while rabbits look cuddly, most don’t like to be held. But that can vary somewhat. Each rabbit, no matter what the breed, has its own personality, Ms. Rodrigues Singer said. "We’ve had two mini-rex rabbits. One loved to be held and the other [hated] it." Many rabbits that aren’t fond of affection will at least sit while you pet them but—not all. "Some may sit across the room and ignore you," Ms. Rodrigues Singer added. Once you have picked out the cutest, healthiest, friendliest bunny in the litter, it’s time to get equipped to care for it. Most domestic or "house" rabbits, as they are referred to, are litter-box trained and given run of a home or a room, which has first been bunny-proofed. "Most of the ones we see don’t live in cages," Dr. Brown said. See where the rabbit heads when it is ready for a bathroom break and place a litter box in that part of the room. Be sure to remove electrical cords and anything else you don’t want to be chewed up while the bunny is on the loose, Dr. Brown warned. Also keep rabbits in a room or rooms with a flat rug rather than piled carpeting that they will chew. In addition, you will need a cage for when you are not able to supervise the chew-happy critter. The cage should be roomy. The Lotkos recommend a cage 24x24x18 for small breeds and a 36x36x24 size for medium breed.

As a general rule, Ms. Manos said, the cage should be approximately four times the size of the bunny and tall enough so that the pet can sit up all the way. The two-level "condos" are popular, Dr. Brown said. These give the pet more room and an interesting place to climb and explore. Rabbits can easily hurt their feet on wire or mesh bottom cages, so owners should line the cage with newspaper, cardboard, or a soft towel. A quick warning about that towel "carpet," though: "If you see your rabbit ingesting a towel, it should be taken away," Ms. Manos said. "The fibers could cause a blockage." When out of its cage, the bunny will need a place to run and hide where it can feel safe, Dr. Brown said. She recommended a wooden or cardboard box with a door so the rabbit can run underneath. You have to know the proper way to hold a rabbit, bunny experts emphasized. "Rabbits need to be handled properly," Mr. Lotko said. Never pick the rabbit up by the scruff of the neck, he cautioned. "Rabbits have delicate spinal cords and improper handling can harm them. Support the feet and scoop them up to you." Feed your new pet a good quality grass hay like timothy hay, orchard grass or oat hay and two cups of fresh leafy green vegetables. Give both of these fresh daily, Dr. Brown said. A very small amount of pellets may also be added to the diet. Use only an 1/8 of a cup of pellets per 5 lbs. of body weight to keep your bunny from becoming obese, she warned. Also avoid treats like seeds, which are fattening. "You have to be careful about that," she said since rabbits tend to gain weight easily. Naturally, the rabbit also needs fresh water daily. Use a water bottle or a crock (a heavier pottery bowl that won’t tip over) inside the cage, Dr. Brown advised.

Rabbits need plenty of exercise, but the good news is they will get it themselves just being out of their cages. Newton, for example, is given plenty of opportunity to burn calories racing around her home turf, Ms. Rodrigues Singer said. "Since my husband works from home, she’s out most days, all day. When we’re both away all day, she gets a few hours in the morning and from 6 p.m. till 11 p.m. at night." Keeping trim isn’t the only reason why exercise is important for a rabbit: digestive and urinary tract problems in sedentary rabbits are thought to be linked to a lack of exercise, Dr. Brown explained. As with all other pets, rabbits need to be given a yearly check up. The veterinarian will examine your bunny’s teeth, look for intestinal problems and any sign of respiratory problems.

Rabbits "are more independent than a dog but not as indifferent as a cat." The vet should also do a fecal exam and check for any blockages in the stomach, Ms. Manos said. "X-rays and blood panels are not always necessary, but a good idea to do once a year, keeping you ahead of any potential problems," she added. Once the rabbit reaches about four to six months, it should be spayed or neutered, Dr. Brown said. The surgery decreases unpleasant behavior like male spraying and inter-rabbit fighting, not to mention greatly reducing the females’ risk for getting uterine cancer and creating unwanted bunnies.

Article Compliments of VetCentric.com

DISCLAIMER: This information is published to assist you with information about your pet. This information is NOT to be used in lieu of a visit to your veterinarian for proper examination and diagnosis.